Darren's Substack

Braised escarole with anchovies and preserved lemons

Darren Lawless — Fri, 10 Apr 2026 11:57:50 GMT

It took me quite a while in my culinary career to fully appreciate and understand how to truly showcase and enhance vegetables. Classically trained I spent quite a bit of time ‘dressing’ the plates of chefs in my younger days. Poaching and boiling were pretty much the techniques used to cook all veg. As time progressed and the influence from different cultures became more mainstream in food, we soon realized that vegetables could stand alone and lent themselves to being cooked and treated like a piece of protein. This opened the doors for chefs and that door has only opened wider with some restaurants solely focusing on vegetables and the many techniques used to cook them.

Eggs in purgatory

Darren Lawless — Fri, 03 Apr 2026 01:36:13 GMT

Well it’s Easter and I just couldn’t not do this. A really simple way to prepare eggs and one of the best things about it is that it doesn’t have to be breakfast to enjoy it - it’s simply that versatile! Served with some hot crusty garlic bread and a tossed salad with perhaps some cheese alongside and you’ve got the makings of a completely satisfying meal.

Chocolate mousse with Cointreau and crushed homemade crunchie’s

Darren Lawless — Fri, 27 Mar 2026 01:16:42 GMT

There’s nothing conspicuous about a chocolate mousse. It can’t hide behind much, its forefront on stage and should be. Delicious chocolate aerated by whipped cream or egg whites and chilled to give you a suspended, foamy, light and yet truly decadent dessert. It was once a staple on every dessert menu but it’s time came and went like the tiramisu and the crème brûlée. Such satisfaction in every bite cannot be denied and perhaps a little refresher is all we need to bring it back.

Romesco - the mother of all accompaniments

Darren Lawless — Thu, 19 Mar 2026 23:04:11 GMT

I first came across romesco later on in my cooking journey. Spain is a place I vacationed in when I was a kid and I’ve always been in love with its culture and food scene ever since. As Spanish food became more popular so did cook books about its cuisine. They provided a window into the many different regions and styles of food dictated as in every culture by status, location, availability and weather. The north of Spain, the Basque country is rooted in tradition and is one of Europes oldest ethnic groups and its world renowned gastronomic scene is legendary. Tapas bars serving small bites (pinchos) are at the epicenter of towns such as San Sebastián. To the east is Catalonia, a coastal region, serving some of the simplest yet greatest tasting food you will ever eat. But for me nothing stands out more than a little side dish that accompanies many of its seafood dishes, Romesco.

The cheddar cheese crust that can’t be topped

Darren Lawless — Fri, 13 Mar 2026 00:13:27 GMT

One of my fondest food memories as a kid was cheese on toast. Soft pillowy white bread, lashings of Kerrygold and then some shredded sharp cheddar sprinkled on top. Usually it was a snack for supper, always served on the weekends and late at night, whilst you watched all your fav tv shows. Placed under a grill and broiled until the cheese was oozing over the edge, it was the stuff of dreams. I liked mine slightly brown on top, the sugar in the cheese caramelizing and with a little bit of ketchup on the side. I know.

Now culinarily I’ve come a long way but I wanted to recreate this childhood ‘delicacy’ with something more grownup that tasted just as pleasurable. Something that was versatile enough to act as a cheese spread or a dip, that could standup to accompanying other components and bold enough to just standout on its own. And so I began to combine and build on all the ingredients that make me happy today and that compliment one another.

Slightly traditional corned beef

Darren Lawless — Wed, 11 Mar 2026 01:22:24 GMT

As they say in Ireland, Cead mile failte (pronounced kade mee-la fall-cha), a Gaelic phrase which means ‘a hundred thousand welcomes’. It represents the ultimate expression of Irish warmth and hospitality. It signifies to visitors a deep and heartfelt welcome. And just like this phrase, corned beef and cabbage has come to symbolize on a plate what this phrase means when spoken. Alright so that’s taking it a step far but I can’t think of a dish that makes people immediately think of Ireland more so than this - although the spice bag is closing in quickly. Full disclosure here, I never had corned beef and cabbage until I moved to the US when I was 21. Yep, never saw it on a menu nor was it ever put in front of me for dinner. That’s right, hard to believe I know. Now I did mention in the video my mother made it every year but in the final editing process at the end I forgot to add this was simply a joke and not true. I can look forward to that call!

I do sincerely love this meal. Like the French with Coq au Vin, the Spanish with Paella and the Italians with Bolognese it has now become sewn into the fabric of my being and has become part of my repertoire up to and after St. Patrick’s Day. Beautifully tender slices of beef paired along with the best side ever, colcannon, some charred carrots and a chive sauce. I’d eat bowls of this - and have.

In doing some research I read that corned beef became popular amongst the Irish in America because beef was not something they could afford nor get readily in Ireland. The ‘corned’ in corned beef refers to the corn size rocks of salt that were used to preserve and cure the beef. The particular cut of beef used is brisket. Pink salt was also used to preserve its color. Spices such as mustard seeds, allspice, bay, peppercorns and dill amongst other things are usually always included when purchased. Unless you purchase an entire brisket it’s typical you are going to get a prepackaged version. Usually these packets house either the fattier and thicker end with more marbling called the point, or the flat cut, which I actually prefer. This is purely down to personal preference. Both cuts require ample time to cook and both will give you a delicious end result.

When talking vegetables to serve alongside, the beauty of this dish is that it can be a one pot wonder. At different points potatoes, cabbage and carrots are added. As the meat is carved, the vegetables are strained of the cooking liquid and added back to the pot. A generous piece of salted Irish butter is added and a little chopped parsley if you want to get fancy. A spoonful of mustard on the side and you’ve got a home run! That’s the traditional way, I wanted to up it somewhat but still keep the beef as the center piece. I added a little cider to the cooking liquid, because why not. The sides I went with are a mashed potato dish that married two Irish potato powerhouse’s, colcannon and champ. Colcannon is mashed potato with the addition of buttered cabbage and leeks - yum, while champ is again mashed potatoes but has braised kale and scallions folded in. Both are beyond pure luxurious on their own but I went with a bastard version and added scallions into a colcannon. It was simply divine! I’m salivating writing this. I must also point out one extremely important note in the presentation of either potato dish. And that is that once placed into a serving bowl a small well is made on the top of the potato mound, and whilst piping hot a large chunk of butter is placed in this well and allowed to slowly melt. As people dig in the butter cascades down the sides like a chocolate fountain at a fair. You get the picture, it’s unreal!

Chickpea panzanella with Parmesan crusted roast artichokes and spiced lemon chicken

Darren Lawless — Fri, 06 Mar 2026 04:37:16 GMT

Needless to say we are all pretty much done with winter. Speaking from someone who lives on Long Island, NY, it’s been a particularly bitter cold and snowy season. But there are slowly signs of spring and its arrival with buds emerging and brighter evenings. There’s only so much more winter food I can take and I’m so ready to move onto something different. There are days when all I want is a big bowl of something healthy, something that doesn’t have me reaching down and finding the next notch on my belt. This salad is and always will be my go too meal when I want something completely satisfying and wholesome. A rift on the classic Italian panzanella, I add some marinated chicken thighs for added protein and make a big batch that will last me 3 days. It keeps wonderfully in the fridge and if anything simply gets better as it sits.

As with any recipe, they are simply guidelines. An idea and foundation that you can build on, a starting point. From there you can add and take away to what you have on hand or what your likes or dislikes are. Don’t like capers (why) no problem, hate olives then leave them out. Salads really are a way of combining whatever you love and simply marrying them with your favorite vinaigrette to produce this bowl of utter satisfaction. Most people can make a salad. I admit I have gone too far on occasion, usually when I’m starving and end up making this monstrosity, a mess that is overly saturated with vinaigrette and loaded with anything that my hands reached for in the fridge. It’s important like anything that there is a thought process. Flavors that compliment and play off one another. For me salads must also have texture, they can’t be this one dimensional bowl of leaves or veggies and that’s the beauty of a great salad, every bite has you coming back for more. Spiked with nuts, homemade croutons, crispy rice or dried fruit, there are many ways to do this. My fav are croutons, drenched in beautifully fruity olive oil, seasoned with salt and pepper and slow roasted until brown and toasted. What they bring to a salad is undeniable. Crunchy, full of good fat and grabbing every drop of that vinaigrette.

One of the key components in this salad are the small baby artichokes. They are placed on some shredded Parmesan with a sprinkling of fresh thyme and roasted until crisp and delicious. Easy to prepare and a definitive way to up the flavor profile of any salad, not just this. Or if you like they can be simply paired with your favorite dip and served as a snack with a cocktail.

my caption

Creamy cheese stuffed shells

Darren Lawless — Fri, 27 Feb 2026 12:46:16 GMT

I’m not gonna lie, stuffed pasta shells are right up there with lasagne for me. Sure it takes some time to prep and cook but my oh my when it arrives on the table straight from the oven there’s literally no more of a satisfying pasta dish. Or maybe it’s just me, that I’m just a sucker for a baked pasta. Red sauce or white, meat or vegetarian, it simply doesn’t matter. It’s definitely a process and I think for any cook that’s the appeal. Pour yourself a glass of wine and pull out your board because this preparation involves different stages but when planned out correctly is a breeze. The cooking of the pasta is very important. Usually with red sauce I cook the shells pretty al dente. They absorb a lot of the juice from the tomatoes and hence will finish cooking as they bake. Here it’s a little different as the shell doesn’t have the ability to absorb the sauce. Therefore cooking the pasta until almost done is the key to success.

This particular dish doesn’t have a red sauce which can take some time to cook out but instead uses a bechamel. A thick white sauce, this recipe flavors it with rosemary, black pepper and freshly grated nutmeg.

In regards to fillings I think simple is best and you can embellish with whatever you have on hand. For the most part ricotta is a staple. It’s your binding agent that holds everything together. I literally went through my fridge and put together a filling from mushrooms, spinach, sun dried tomatoes and some diced chicken meat from a rotisserie chicken.

Cheese is also a major component. Shredded mozzarella has to be in this party as does Parmesan, and plenty of them. All these ingredients can speak volume’s together and simply paired with a silky creamy sauce, few things are as satisfying.

Jamaican jerk chicken

Darren Lawless — Sun, 22 Feb 2026 19:58:42 GMT

There’s not a lot of things in the culinary world that beats roasting a whole chicken at home. Easy to prepare it fills the entire house with a savory aroma that makes even vegetarians drool. Jerk chicken, for me, only compounds this feeling 5 fold. I’m a true addict! So what exactly is jerk chicken? The term ‘jerk’ is believed to be derived from the Spanish word charqui, meaning dried meat. A blend of spices, allspice (pimento) and heat from scotch bonnets are key ingredients. The meat is slow cooked over a wood fire using wood from the pimento tree. This style of cooking results in a juicy chicken with a spicy and slightly smoky flavor.

I adore the different sweet spices, the tang from the Worcestershire sauce in the marinade and the heat from the scotch bonnets. Traditionally it’s cooked over an open flame but during the colder months that’s not an option when snow is falling. Slow roasting the chicken at the top of the oven helps achieve that dark look you’d get from a grill outside while a low temperature keeps the meat juicy. Key also is leaving the chicken on the bone. I will spatchcock the chicken, meaning remove the backbone, and place the bird on a rack so air can freely move all around it. Roasting the chicken on the bone imparts more flavor and hinders it from drying out.

my caption

Another key to the success of any jerk chicken has to be the length of time you marinate your chicken. I’d say 24 hours is minimum and 72 maximum. There isn’t a lot of acid in this recipe so there’s no fear of the meat getting broken down from over marinating, like in some curries where yogurt is used. Remove from the fridge an hour before roasting and you’re good to go. You can portion this chicken up and eat as is but I usually make an aji verde sauce to compliment it. Beautifully fragrant from cilantro and rich from sour cream and mayonnaise, it pairs absolutely wonderfully with the heat and spiciness of the chicken. This dish is always served with rice and I made a quick and simple black bean and fresh tomato rice with the addition of coconut milk to keep it ‘Island’ style. A lite salad on the side of cucumber, tomatoes and avocado rounded everything off. I hope you try this recipe, it’s feckn gorjus!

The sweeter things in life

Darren Lawless — Fri, 13 Feb 2026 05:21:11 GMT

Panna cotta - meaning ‘cooked cream’ is some say Italy’s version of a crème brûlée but personally I think it’s better. Wonderfully decadent and beautifully soft and creamy, it is a rich custard made with gelatin, chilled and set. It barely holds itself together as your spoon pulls through it. It’s incredibly versatile and lends itself to taking on many flavors and garnishes. For me to contrast its silky texture it must have some crunch paired with a sauce with acidity to balance its rich taste. This panna cotta as simple as it is has it all.

I’ve chosen to use fresh vanilla beans here for its depth of flavor and it’s always a delightful sight to see the thousands of seeds suspended in the cream. The garnish is really simple and totally addictive. Frosted Flakes are mixed with chocolate and Nutella and let set until crunchy. The sugary outer layer on the frosted flakes stops them from getting soggy and they stay crunchy way longer than they are around.

my caption

Now with anything custardy I always find that even the smallest amount of acid from berries or fruit is such a welcoming taste. Otherwise it’s just one dimensional, spoonful after spoonful. I’ve gone with frozen berries because it’s February and decided to cook the fruit to reduce some of the juice they expel. The smell of strawberries slowly bubbling away in a saucepan has to rank as one of my favorites. It is so unique and capturing.

Typically panna cotta is made in a mold and unmolded when set and then plated. If you feel more comfortable by all means use a ramekin or glassware, figure each portion should be around 3-4oz. The recipe below will give you about 10-12 panna cotta. I recommend making this recipe as is and freezing any you don’t use. Every item here in this desert can be frozen, sauce and garnish. I’ve done this with no compromise to its flavor or integrity. But if you are going to freeze chill panna cotta overnight before doing so. I really hope you make this dessert, it’s simple, unbelievably rewarding at every level and truly feckn gorjus!

The mother of all tuna melts!

Darren Lawless — Tue, 10 Feb 2026 00:15:49 GMT

If I’m to be honest here I was never a big fan of the tuna melt. There was something just not right sounding about it. Right up there in fact with tuna casserole. “No I’m good I’ll pass thanks”. But, as mentioned, growing up in Ireland tuna salad and anything made using it wasn’t a big thing. Here in the US it’s kinda something you grow up having in the fridge, along with egg salad, potato salad and cold cuts. Very tasty but hot, toasted and with cheese on it thou? I’m still not sold on it, weird because I think tuna salad is delicious but I’ll never order one if out. But an open faced tuna melt, this crostini completely changed everything.

For the most part tuna salad couldn’t be easier to make. Canned tuna, mayo, chopped celery and seasoning. But tweaking the two main ingredients can and does make all the difference - and you’ll notice it the second you take your first bite. First off try and use good quality tuna. Good quality anything is always a good place to start. You don’t have to get the very best but tuna packed in olive oil is sweeter, cleaner tasting and much more delicate in texture. Drain some of the oil off, squeeze some lemon on it and you could eat it straight from the can. The second component that’s a game changer is the mayo. I always use Marie Rose sauce when making tuna salad, it’s what in Europe they refer to as cocktail sauce. Mayo, ketchup, Worcestershire, lemon juice and that secret ingredient make it one of the most addictive mayo based sauces around. Christ drag some fries through it! All this flavor smothers the tuna and the addition of some finely chopped red onions and cornichons added for texture and acidity. It is so glorious you’ll be shoveling it onto crackers before you even make the crostini.

Now when I made this video and posted it I genuinely had no idea that its popularity would skyrocket like it did. As good as the tuna salad looked there was one other component that threw everyone for a loop and it wasn’t how good the tomatoes looked. I made a compound butter, a fancy name for flavored butter, that had crushed up salt and vinegar chips folded into it. I made it, I knew how good it was but the response was tremendous and deservedly so. It absolutely sent this over the edge. It provided this unctuous base, full of flavor and texture - talk about a fancy fish and chips! Some beautiful sliced tomatoes added contrast and sharp aged cheddar gave us the topping for what would be the greatest open faced tuna melt you’ll make over and over again.

So it all makes sense to me now, I just had to reconfigure this tuna melt thing in my head and make it work for me. As always please give this a go, it’s feckn gorjus!

The Italian job

Darren Lawless — Fri, 06 Feb 2026 01:29:10 GMT

It’s been a long long time since I learned how to make peperonata. And it’s been quite a while since I made it. Sauce, side dish or condiment, refer to it however you like but one thing is for sure, it’s absolutely delicious. Usually made during the summer it highlights the summers bounty of bell peppers and tomatoes but I’ve been craving it so said what the hell. Bell peppers, tomatoes, onions and fresh herbs are slowly simmered until meltingly rich and soft in texture. It’s similar I guess to caramelizing onions, but has more layers and notes of flavor, it’s less one dimensional. There are the necessary steps to take to get the best from all the ingredients but for the most part it’s very easy to make.

A generous amount of good olive oil is needed to slowly toast your garlic. I always add the garlic when I first add the oil to the saucepan. Starting the garlic in cold oil allows it to slowly release its flavor, producing a magnificent pungent oil that will envelope all the other ingredients. Lightly toasting it will also produce a nutty component to the dish. Three different fresh herbs are used and at different stages. Rosemary, thyme and fresh oregano. Rosemary gets added first and allowed to cook throughout the dish. This is an herb that needs to cook out and break down. It’s not a finishing herb. The thyme and oregano are added when the peperonata gets taken off the heat and allowed to bloom in the residual heat preserving their freshness. Herbs elevate everything and this dish is evidence that when added at the correct moment can transform something from good to great! I’ve come across variations that add a little vinegar but I also like a little heat in mine so I add some sliced hot cherry peppers. As these are pickled it brings all the acidity I need to help cut some of the richness but completely optional and a personal preference. Whenever trying to either caramelize onions or making this dish, I always find the lid of your saucepan is your best friend. Leaving it on at certain points creates steam and traps all the vapors. Seasoning at the beginning is also key as it pulls out all the moisture. These vapors return to the ingredients below and help break them down, in essence they are stewing in there own juices. When the resistance has gone and the vegetables have no bite, the lid can be removed and the liquid reduced to the desired consistency. The dish should have a glossy look to it and the vegetables completely smothered in its own sauce produced by the tomatoes. If you have reduced it down further than you like or it looks dry, simply add a little water. Served with fish, meat, pasta, on a sandwich or just on some crostini with goat cheese - the possibilities are endless and this dish hits every time. It really is feckn gorjus!

Taking the 7 train

Darren Lawless — Wed, 04 Feb 2026 01:48:52 GMT

Empanadas. Many cultures around the world have some version or another of an empanada. The samosa, the pierogi or the ravioli are all different doughs with a unique filling. Originating in Spain and Portugal, empanadas are a pocket stuffed with a savory or sweet filling incased in a flaky dough and either baked or deep fried. Eaten as an appetizer or a snack they are delicious served alongside a great dipping sauce. I prefer to bake my empanadas rather than fry them but that’s just a personal preference. I’ve made many different variations but my go too always has to be this beautifully spiced ground beef and chorizo version. It is bound together with a traditional Mexican adobo sauce which gets its spice from smoky chipotles and exotic notes from cinnamon and allspice. Some shredded jack cheese is added but you could also use cheddar. I keep with tradition and add sweet peas and a baked potato to round everything out. Now I’ve tried numerous times to make the dough but have failed each time. It’s an incredibly wet dough and rolling it out has proved impossible. So to make life easy I simply purchase the discs from my local supermarket and honestly they’re feckn great.

My dipping sauce is anything but traditional. Giardiniera, a pickled Italian relish consisting usually of cauliflower, carrots, peppers and celery is chopped fine and added to a mayo/sour cream blend. Curry powder and other spices are added to give this sauce a wonderfully tangy spicy flavor. This bold sauce stands up perfectly to the spices of the beef and they couldn’t compliment one another better. I literally could sit down and eat a dozen of these, and probably have so I hope you give them a try. They’re feckn gorjus!

The heart of soup season

Darren Lawless — Tue, 03 Feb 2026 22:21:11 GMT

I’ve never been much of a soup person, it’s definitely nothing I would ever order eating out in a restaurant but at home on a winters day there’s nothing more satisfying than the smell or taste of soup being made. I do love soup don’t get me wrong, but I need the carbs that go with it also. Hot crusty bread, slathered in butter or pesto, dragged through a thick bisque - now that’s food to me. Making sauces has always been my favorite station in a kitchen. And soups I guess are a simpler derivative of them. I can to this day remember my first taste of a rich Madeira sauce. I worked at La Tante Claire, Pierre Koffmanns kitchen, I was 20 years old. I asked the sous chef (a complete wanker) could I taste this magical liquid that I watched reducing for hours, made from bones, water and alcohol. As I sipped it every neuron in my brain reacted. How in gods name could something so unbelievably spectacular tasting be made. My complete fascination with food was compounded by this exact moment. How the true talent of a chef can create this alchemy. I needed to know and so began my love affair for sauces.

Like most things on the savory side of a kitchen it’s technique. Every step you make produces a result that can dictate the end result. Now soups are far less complicated than sauces but the process is the same. You start with an ingredient and build from there, adding layers that complement one another. I believe soups should be simple, if it’s broccoli than broccoli should be what you taste first, not ginger, not cheese but broccoli. There are multiple varieties of soup to choose from - bisques, chowders, broths, consommés and purees, all with distinct methods and garnishes. In this recipe we will explore a purée with the addition of cream. I always feel a vegetable soup needs the addition of cream just because our bodies crave that richness in the colder months. And I love the addition of potato in puréed soups as it brings richness and a velvety smoothness. To enhance this soup further it is served with garlic butter and cheese smothered English muffins. But with a difference. The butter also has the addition of rich chicken bouillon which send it over the top. The muffins are baked until toasty and the cheese is crisp and golden. I’ve never had a soup garnish taste as good and on their own can be even used to dip in your favorite salad dressing or dip. Make this soup, it’s truly feckn gorjus!

Creamed spinach with a cheese and potato chip crust

Darren Lawless — Tue, 03 Feb 2026 00:32:17 GMT

In the middle of winter or for the holidays can a luxurious rich dish served piping hot straight from the oven and placed in the center of the table be beat? The aroma of garlic, rosemary, cream and melting cheese punch the air with all the subtlety of a landslide! This has to be one of my fav sides and one of the most requested I get asked to make. Decadent and with layers of flavors it’s just what you’d hope for when imagining the ultimate comfort food. After all, there is a reason creamed spinach adorns as many restaurant menus as it does. So I’ve added some components that work perfectly alongside the spinach and play off its earthiness. Artichokes immediately came to mind, a spinach dip wouldn’t be a spinach dip without them so seemed kind of obvious to include them here. Leeks and sweet vidalia onions are also included and both rendered in butter until meltingly soft to provide a base and help give the dish some additional notes. Fresh herbs, some nutmeg and a little optional spice courtesy of some jalapeño round out the dish.

I’ve always felt that it’s a good idea to provide some texture for contrast when making a dish so rich that is baked. It does a few things, it gives you the opportunity to add an additional layer of flavor and also some much needed crunch to an otherwise one dimensional feel. The topping I came up with marries panko breadcrumbs with crushed sour cream and onion potato chips and bound with delicious Italian fontina cheese which melts beautifully when hot. The potato chips will leave people guessing and it’s such a simple way to up the flavor profile of the dish. You couldn’t want any other way of preparing creamed spinach after you’ve tried this. Go ahead, it’s feckn gorjus!

• You can make the spinach part of this dish a few days ahead but don’t put the crust on until as directed in the recipe

• make the crust the day off as to keep the potato chips as crunchy as possible

• it can be made and frozen

•if you prefer you can absolutely use fresh spinach just make sure the weight is the same as stated in the recipe when it’s cooked and drained of all liquid

• if fontina is not available for the crust then cheddar, Parmesan, shredded mozzarella or Jack cheese would work equally well

Peanut butter cocoa Rice Krispie treats with Cadburys milk chocolate ganache

Darren Lawless — Mon, 02 Feb 2026 17:40:39 GMT

A long time ago when I worked my first summer as a private chef for a family with young kids in the Hamptons, I was asked to make something fun that people could just grab as they walked through the kitchen. I actually had never had a Rice Krispie treat before and when someone showed up with some I was intrigued. It tasted great, everyone loved them and I thought to myself, hang on let’s run with this. Hence this is what I came up. I can honestly say with my hand on my heart, I’ve never had any other Rice Krispie treat before that comes even close to how good this is. Anyone and everyone who tries these will beg you for the recipe, hound you for it and want more and more. It’s simple to make, nostalgic and both kids and grown ups all swoon over how great they are. The top layer of ganache I believe is the secret to their success. Some people question if it’s caramel its consistency is so decadent. I’m salivating just writing this. The only tricky thing as anyone will tell you who has made Rice Krispie treats before is the mixing, the spreading and the removing out of the tray. My advice is to spray a spatula with cooking spray, this works wonders. If you have a silpat spread them out on that or spray wax paper well before spreading. Make these, they are insanely feckn gorjus and a recipe you will cherish for ever!

An updated nod to my heritage

Darren Lawless — Sun, 01 Feb 2026 21:36:44 GMT

It’s no secret that growing up in Ireland the potato was a feature on the table at just about every meal. It’s the cornerstone of a Sunday roast and deservedly so. Its versatility lends itself to so many preparations it’s hard not to say that you’re not a potato lover. And ironically my kids are not. For them pasta is there go too carb request at dinner time but we are many miles from Ireland. I can’t say what potato preparation is my favorite. I can never turn down a French fry, crispy on the outside and dragged through garlic aioli or the smell of a gratin slowly cooking in cream flavored with rosemary and topped with cheese just makes my knees buckle. Yeah I got it bad. But mash is up there also. And growing up colcannon was a request I put in frequently to my mother. It’s made using mashed potatoes and the addition of cooked kale or cabbage folded in, spooned high into a serving bowl with a large generous knob of salted Irish butter placed right on top. Slowly the butter melts and oozes down the sides like lava from a volcano. I mean how can that be bad. I dream about it often but rarely make it.

I did however feel I wanted to make a different version, more vegetable heavy but equally satisfying. And so this side was born. A combination of carrots and parsnips are treated the same way as the original potato version and simply simmered in water until tender and mashed. In a separate pot sliced leeks and kale are sweated down in butter until tender and cream is added to create this wonder thick rich addition. To enhance the butter on top I added a little miso to it. It added depth and brought this separate flavor profile that utterly enhances the dish. So all there’s left to say is please try this, it’s super easy to make, wonderfully delicious and incredibly satisfying. Honestly it’s feckn gorjus!

Taking a dip in Chesapeake

Darren Lawless — Sun, 01 Feb 2026 17:50:00 GMT

For me one of the highlights of summer are crab cakes and ice cold beers sitting in the garden. Sautéed in butter until golden brown and crisp on the outside, pillowy soft and lemony on the inside, some spicy mayo and potato chips - I’m a happy man! Sure you can make them any time of year but it’s not the same in the middle of winter. So plan B. They’ve been making crab dips forever and a few years back I decided to give it a try. I loved it and had to give it a go. This recipe doesn’t stray far from the original with the exception of what it is accompanied with. I adore Vietnamese salt and pepper crab and wanted this to be my inspiration. It’s not a complicated dish by any stretch and relies on a little technique, truly a less is more approach. Traditionally the crab is left in its shell and deep fried until crispy. The seasoning made from salt, pepper, chili, and spices, is wonderfully fragrant and a real lick your finger and bibb dish to beat the band. So with this in mind I wanted to create a dip that mirrored both in taste and texture. The crab is smothered in a luscious dressing made from mayonnaise, cream cheese and sour cream, tweaked with some pickled jalapeños for heat and some five spice for that Vietnamese influence. To achieve the crunch of the original dish I simply made a crust from breadcrumbs, olive oil and a little sharp cheddar for bite and sprinkled it all over before it heads into the oven.

To serve alongside anything goes for the most part - tortilla chips, crudite, crackers, toast points, chips. For me it had to be toast points. This dip is rich and needs something sturdy to drag through it. But I didn’t want to stop there. Shellfish and butter are a match made in heaven like strawberries and cream, eggs and bacon and tomato and basil. So I decided to make a compound butter to spread on the toast to go with the crab. And at the back of my mind I was still yearning for potato chips that I have with my crab cakes during the summer. So a potato chip butter was born. Here I’ve used dill pickle potato chips, crushed up fine and added to the butter. I’ve made salt and vinegar potato chip butter before which would also have been perfect here but dill pickle was screaming my name. Spread on the toast with a spoonful of the hot crab and you’ve got a bite of food that kings and queens can only dream of! It’s truly feckn gorjus!

From the inside out

Darren Lawless — Fri, 30 Jan 2026 00:18:28 GMT

This soup has been in my repetoire for 25 plus years. A soup so full bodied and hearty that once eaten you feel like a human radiator. It’s a soup that is built, it has a foundation and is then stacked with layers, no messing about, it has a job to do. When I was young soups for the most part were always purées, finished with cream and luxurious. Delicious but it was specific to having another dish after it. And they became a little boring to make. When this soup came along I stood at the stove, knife in hand and did what I love doing the most, cooking! The process was just like making a stock. Extracting as much flavor from each ingredient at every step of the way. It’s not difficult to make just needs a little planning. This isn’t just a soup, it’s a meal. Served piping hot with crusty bread slathered in cold salted Irish butter or freshly made pesto, I simply can’t think of a more satisfying way to warm up on a blistering freezing cold day.
My favorite way to approach making this white bean and escarole soup is always the same. A rainy or snowy day, some great music on in the background and a nice glass of red wine. No plans, no rush, just relaxing doing what I love most!
Planning ahead here calls for soaking the beans overnight. I always find doing this makes for a richer soup as when they cook in the broth their starch helps thicken it. You could substitute 2 cans (14oz each) of already cooked beans if in a pinch. I’ve used bacon for the smokey flavor it adds but hot or sweet Italian sausage works also. I’ve eaten this soup 5 days after I’ve made it and it was better that day than when I made it so in the fridge this soup holds perfectly. Can this soup be frozen? I never have and freezing beans is always best if they are submerged in a liquid which they are here so yes I assume so. If anyone does freeze it please let me know how it goes. For all my cooking fresh herbs are always my first choice and not dried. The notes fresh herbs bring to a dish can sometimes make the difference between something being okay and something being fantastic! It’s my first post here and if you’ve gotten to reading this thank you. Much more to come! Recipe will be posted!